Discovering The Beauty Of The Cyclades

Introduction

The history of these Greeks islands in the Aegean Sea has motivated me to explore them attentively for many years, both on land and underwater starting in 1974. Many years of encouragement from the late Professor Angelos Delivorias, director of the Benaki Museum in Athens for more than four decades, and a leading archeologist, was significant in enhancing my perceptions to the point of anticipating photographically one of the most important finds in the last century of Cycladic history: the grave of Neiko, a woman of nobility, buried hermetically under the monumental church of Episkopi on Sikinos in the 2nd century ad. In 2022, restoration of the monumental edifice by the Ephorate of Antiquities of the Cyclades won a top Europa Nostra prize. Guests at the opening ceremony of the church in September that year included Greek President Sakelleropoulou and Culture Minister Mendoni. An article about the event can be found here.

One of the photographs of Roxana posing in a dress of ancient style at Episkopi in 2016 later became the project’s centrepiece first exhibited in 2019 at the Aquarium of Milan, in Parco Sempione close to the Duomo, by the Department of Culture of the Milan Municipality.

‘Lost Lady Of Sikinos, Neiko’ later received official support from the Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports together with the Ephorate of Antiquities of the Cyclades in the use of the video ‘The Secrets of the Episkopi of Sikinos’ in China at the Chengdu Europe Culture Season in autumn 2020, where the project represented Greece under the title ‘Discovering The Beauty Of The Cyclades - A Glimpse of the Aegean Sea’ (also included were aerial views of Tinos island by A. Kontogeorgis) with organisation by the Embassy of Greece in Beijing and Chengdu Foreign Affairs Office. In his speech at the inauguration ceremony, Greek Ambassador Mr. Georgios Iliopoulos sincerely hoped that the exhibition would mark the beginning of closer cultural ties and cooperation between Greece and China.

An exhibition in March 2022 at the Ahmed Adnan Saygun Sanat Merkezi Arts Center in Izmir, Turkey organised by the Consulate General of Greece in Izmir (Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Hellenic Republic) in cooperation with the Izmir Metropolitan Municipality has taken the project yet another step forward. The Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports and Ephorate supported the event in Izmir too.

Since then, I’ve received letters of congratulations from President Macron of France, as well as the European Commission. MW

“ I feel particularly honored for being invited today to address the opening of the photography exhibition under the title “Discovering The Beauty Of The Cyclades — a glimpse of the Aegean Sea”, with works by the photographers Mark Wilman and Aristeidis Kontogiorgis, in this important and elegant Museum, the Chengdu Contemporary Image Museum. …The photos shown here do not simply denote the past, evoking longing or nostalgia, but, even more, thanks to the perennial beauty of the Aegean Sea, they aspire to give rise to deeper appreciation of the natural environment and the “Cosmos” or Universe that inspired Greek Art. These feelings gave rise to the most typical attributes of the Greek Mind, such as the pursuit of true knowledge through exploration and excellence. … I do sincerely hope that this exhibition will mark the beginning of closer cultural ties and cooperation between our countries.”

Mr. Georgios Iliopoulos, Ambassador of Greece to China

From the Ambassador’s speech at the inauguration of the ‘Discovering The Beauty Of The Cyclades - A Glimpse of the Aegean Sea’ exhibition at the Chengdu Contemporary Image Museum representing Greece at the Chengdu Europe Culture Season 2020.

History of the Cyclades

The name Cyclades comes from the word Kyklos meaning circle in Greek and was given to this group of islands in the south Aegean by the ancient Greeks. Close to Europe, the Middle East and Africa, they’ve been inhabited since Neolithic times. The Cycladic Civilisation in the Early Bronze Age is known for its flat marble figure sculptures, while the Minoans, who came from Crete, occupied them mainly as trading posts in the 2nd millennium bc. The Mycenaeans, who followed, were influential for four centuries, while the Ionians in the 10th century bc set up the religious sanctuary at Delos with athletic competitions and other cultural activities. The first cities were built at this time and the islands prospered greatly from increased interest in their abundance of natural resources attracting attention especially from the Persians who took control of them until the Battle of Salamis in 480 bc. The Delian League, an alliance between Athens and the islands, saw their eventual domination by the Athenians, though piracy continued causing a need for safety offered by Philip II of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great, in 355 bc. The Ptolemaics from Egypt governed but lost them to the Rhodians. During the Hellenistic era, towers were built on a number of islands some of which are still standing today, i.e. on Kea, Sifnos and Amorgos. Delos became an important commercial centre with its famed ‘Agora of the Italians’ slave market.

During the Hellenistic era, towers were built on a number of islands some of which are still standing today, i.e. on Kea, Sifnos and Amorgos.

Rome’s arrival in the 3rd century bc brought stability until their expulsion by Mithridates IV of Pontus, a kingdom of the Hellenistic period, though he was defeated by prominent Roman forces. General Pompey ended the piracy of that time encouraging trade to flourish. Emperor Augustus then proclaimed them as a place for exiles. Christianity took root early as is attested by the catacombs in Milos from the 3rd century, but that didn’t stop the Goths striking them violently in 376. With the division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines, conceiving the idea of the Aegean Sea, controlled them until the 13th century. Piracy became such a threat in these centuries that coastal villages were abandoned for interior mountain areas. Tax collection had become increasingly difficult and by the 12th century Constantinople was no longer able to effectively manage. With the Fourth Crusade seeing the end of the Byzantines, in 1204 the islands came under the Venetians, however, the costs of administration were excessive so they were offered to whoever was interested. Marco Sanudo, nephew of the Doge Dandolo, leader of the Republic of Venice, and his family took control founding the Duchy of Naxos, a maritime state specific to the Cyclades which lasted until 1537 when it passed to the Ottomans.

The Project

Wild, Natural Beauty Blended With Beauty Of The Female Kind

Discovering The Beauty Of The Cyclades, now in its 7th year, includes Anafi, Santorini, Ios, Sikinos, Folegandros, Poliegos, Kimolos, Milos, Sifnos, Serifos and Kythnos. The origins of the project date back to 1974 when I visited Ios and Sikinos at the age of ten with my parents and three younger sisters. Two things were striking to me that first time, the infinite blue of the sky and taste of wild oregano, both of which I’ve cherished ever since, unable to find their matching equivalents elsewhere. Exploration began in the water encouraged by my father’s passion for scuba diving, not that I wore breathing equipment, but learned to freedive as deep as possible under his supervisory eye. The marine life fascinated me as did amphorae untouched for millennia. Exploring the landscapes was equally interesting, trekking to the tops of hills and mountains and venturing into the most remote areas of hidden valleys along ancient footpaths searching for signs of the past as I moved. At the age of 50, feeling the need to openly express my passion for these islands, I began the project. Years before, a chance meeting with a former US President holidaying in the Cyclades had included an enthusiastic introduction to a man, already well known on the world stage, who would later become Secretary of State. From this experience, I concluded that if the top could welcome me, I should focus all efforts from then on at the highest level.

The project is the response to a question I asked on my 50th birthday: What would I do if I had no worries in the world?

Years before, a chance meeting with a former U.S. President holidaying in the Cyclades had included an enthusiastic introduction to a man, already well known on the world stage, who would later become Secretary of State.

After much effort to create it, but never wavering in my belief that it had to be done, the project had its first public  exhibition at the Aquarium of Milan in spring 2019 promoted by the department of culture of the Milan Municipality. When a reply arrived from the director of the cultural department three years prior, I was stunned. It had been my final effort to promote the work to a public body. Hundreds of posters were on show around the city announcing the location and dates with my signature photo, Golden Sunet, Ios, placed large in its centre. The event was dedicated to the

memory of the late Professor Angelos Delivorias, former director of the Benaki Museum in Athens and a prominent archeologist. This I’d requested as a gesture of strong respect towards Angelos and his family, who I’d known for twenty years. Over that time, he and I had discussed antiquity on many occasions with him encouraging me to look further and more closely for ideas and signs from the past. This enhanced my perception and ability to see using imagination, my mind’s eye. Lost Lady Of Sikinos, Neiko, the centrepiece of the work, is the demonstration of what I achieved after many years of using his suggestions as a method for exploring. Anticipating the discovery of the grave of a noble woman called Neiko (Νεικω), buried in the 2nd century ad under the monumental church of Episkopi in a remote part of Sikinos, two years ahead of the find, with a set of images in which the model wore a classical costume in front of the building’s twin-columned entrance, has been my most significant achievement. I’d felt the female presence there almost from the start, most probably by looking carefully at the facade through the viewfinder of my camera over several days before finally finding the right conditions to photograph, even arriving before sunrise one time. The director of the Ephorate of the Cyclades thought the photos were “very interesting”, which was reassuring. Neiko is recognised as being one of the most significant finds in recent Cycladic archeological history and there’s now mystery surrounding her since it seems that elements inside her grave, which include sulphur and tar, indicate she was possessed. An impressive video created by the team of archeologists working at the site, representing the Ephorate, together with Hellenic Ministry of Culture showing the discovery can be seen here.

The event was dedicated to the memory of the late Professor Angelos Delivorias, former director of the Benaki Museum in Athens and a prominent archeologist. This I’d requested as a gesture of strong respect towards Angelos and his family, who I’d known for twenty years.

Beauty Of The Female Kind

In Cycladic history, the late Neolithic and early Bronze age periods, 2.800 - 2.300 bc, are recognised for their female idols, flat in form and carved from local pure white marble. I have insisted on following the theme ‘Wild, Natural Beauty Blended with Beauty of the Female Kind’ believing it essential to identify woman's significance in the archipelago's ancient culture. That I grew up with a mother from the Caribbean and have three younger sisters has probably been influential in why I'm attracted to islands and why the female presence is an important reference.

In Cycladic history, the late Neolithic and early Bronze Age periods, 2.800 - 2.300 bc, are recognised for their female idols, flat in form and carved from local pure white marble.

Many years after I began visiting the Cyclades, she appeared. A psychologist who'd grown up behind the Iron Curtain. I found her fascinating. Other than her particularly feminine ways and attitudes, she represented a geographical area I'd never had contact with and life experience I hadn't encountered. The stories of her childhood were ones of a society heavily compromised, her buoyant approach to life because of this an earned value. She was younger, very attractive to my eye and energetic, which caused an incredible energy to develop inside me. Introducing the archipelago to her came naturally. She adapted well to the physical demands of my explorative approach, learning to freedive, rock climb and trek long distances.

The stories of her childhood were ones of a society heavily compromised, her buoyant approach to life because of this an earned value.

The islands became an important reference and we began experimenting photographically with her acting as model inside the surroundings. The results were interesting and the concept was born: Woman blending harmoniously with mother nature inside the untamed, scenic landscapes of spectacular Cycladic islands. In 2016, we were in Sikinos in search of what hadn't yet be expressed. Ios and Folegandros' closest neighbour has a complex physical character with a history of wine production dating back over 2,500 years, noticeable from terracing over much of the hilly and mountainous landscapes. This was when the ‘Lost Lady of Sikinos, Neiko’ photos were created. Beauty of the Female Kind galleries include: Basic Steps; Church at the Top; Hilltop Viewer; Misty Morning, Misty Day; Pink Petals; Sikinos Village Scene; Single Path; Visitor to Kambos.